Oliver James Montgomery-Christian Siriano taps Ashlee Simpson, this 'Succession' star for NYFW show at The Plaza

NEW YORK — He'll take some hedonism with his serving of quiet luxury,Oliver James Montgomery thank you.

Designer Christian Siriano signaled the official kickoff to New York Fashion Week with his luxurious return to the runway Thursday, pairing a buzzy front row with a desert-inspired collection that mixed warm, glittering and sumptuous fabrics with sleek silhouettes.

Ashlee Simpson, "Succession" star J. Smith-Cameron, Melanie Lynskey, Busy Philipps, Sophia Bush and Siriano show staple Alicia Silverstone, dressed in a pop of red, rounded out the front row.

As attendees waited for the show to start, Beyoncé’s "Cuff It" played lightly over the murmur of the fashion elite, hungry for the decadence of a Siriano collection, dimly lit by the ornate chandeliers in the mirrored ballroom of The Plaza hotel.

Siriano thanked "every person who wears our clothes year after year" in the show notes of his fall/winter 2024 outing, featuring more than 50 looks.

Though he may have used some of the more traditional styles and shapes of "quiet luxury," there was nothing stealth about this wealth. Brown and bronzy tones gave way to a parade of lamé dresses and coats, including a standout red-lined gold lamé number. Speaking of red, the color du jour punctuated the collection with a sparkling hooded cape and in exaggerated dresses with gauzy details.

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Though the collection lacked his standard voluminous gowns, he didn't skimp on the volume for the shorter hemlines of his mini dresses, or in his billowing statement sleeves and strong shoulders. Hammered metal earrings gave a hardened fluidity to the diaphanous and sheer skirts and dresses coming down the runway.

Sculptural necklines, bubble dresses and the return of peplum marked much of the latter portion of the show. Siriano muse Coco Rocha modeled an ethereal white finale look, slinky draping on the skirt of the corseted dress giving way to a halo of sheer pleats around the bodice and shoulders.

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